Best of NX250 / AX1 / XL250 Degree built

[scrambler]

Moving on - since the NX250 frame lacks the bracket for attaching the rear brake reservoir I bought a piggyback reservoir that is bolted on.



But it turned out that I measured incorrectly – the banjo bolt of the brake cylinder is too close to the Muffler.



Good thing that I made the mock-up plate out of 5mm PVC – much easier to drill and grind than steel. So a second plate was produced quickly.



Much better – but know I have to check if the swingarm has still enough clearance.

[jonathan]

if there's just enough clearance throughout the swingam's travel, you should be fine. There's no deflection at the pivot point. Worst case scenario you'd make a bolt-on bracket for the original reservoir, or make a stepped bracket for the new set-up. I fitted a YSS shock to my CRF250L...worked really well

[Zigomatix]

Hi Michael,
I just want to warm you about your rear brake.
A friend of mine has an Aprilia 1000 RSV early model (can't remember the exact year). Anyway the point is : On his (and all of those years of course) bike, the rear brake reservoir is too near the muffler, just as I can see it on you picture. Resulting rear brake is inexistant because 1) Dot liquid is far too hot and 2 internals o-rings does not last at all.
So be careful with your piggyback reservoir, it is realy to near the muffler, it will heat too much and you may loose your rear brake ...
Could be dangerous ! and / or suprising !

Patrick

[jonathan]

It's a good point Patrick. It could turn out to be an issue. The original reservoir is located fairly close to the exhaust as well. All depends how much air travels over it during normal use...maybe run a little less fluid to allow for expansion? Also, the top cap looks pretty well insulated...

[Zigomatix]

The original reservoir is located fairly close to the exhaust as well.

It might be, I don't know but keep in mind that original reservoir is in plastic not in aluminium which is a better heat conductor and may transfert heat to the whole system ...

[scrambler]

The original reservoir is located fairly close to the exhaust as well.

Yes, and additionally the connection between the reservoir and the brake cylinder is wrapped around the manifold. Also not an ideal solution.





But I guess I will be fine - there is about 15mm space between the cap and the muffler. If necessary I can put some heat deflecting mat in between. The clearance to the swingarm is also sufficient.



But I will keep an eye on the temperature and check it with my IR laser Thermometer - the muffler is not getting very hot, at this point about 80C° at idle.

[jonathan]

wet boiling point of brake fluid is much higher than the temps you're likely to see at the manifold...it will be fine I think. The only potential issue is expansion, which can be 'adjusted' according to how much pressure you'd need to apply.

[Der_Dicke82]

Hey,

i dont think with good Brakefluid you will have any problems! But when it is old an you are stucked in the traffic, which resultes in less wind and more work for the brake, it can happen your brakefluid starts boiling.

But when you change your Brakefluid from time to time the risk of this problem will go nearly to zero. But really change the Brakefluid i saw people just top up the reservoir and let it go Better you empty it totally and the fill it up and get the Air out.

Have fun with this really nice Bike

Sunny greetings from Senegal
Stefan

[Zigomatix]

Hi,
I knew boiling point of brakefluid is much higher than 80°C. That is not the main problem I think. But combination of higher DOT temperature and higher master cylinder temperature would hurt the o-rings. They are not designed for as the disc is far enough for, in normal time, not to make the system heat too much.

Again this is an experienced issue, but maybe Honda has, at the time, forseen it better than Aprilia

Hope you won't loose your rear brake ...

Anyway, I don't use it that much, at least during road trips. I've not been off road for a long while so don't remember how much I used rear brake.

See you, Patrick

[scrambler]

Moving on to the secondary drive. A DID VX3 gold chain (much more durable and rust resistant than the black DID) JTF front sprocket and new OEM retainer/bolts.



Usually I prefer endless chains because they are safer. In the past decades I several times lost the clip of the lock and at one occasion first the chain lock and than the chain In my opinion every chain lock is a weak point. Another benefit of an endless chain: since the swingarm/linkages must be dissembled the bearings can be greased. Which is highly recommend every couple of years since the bearings are expensive and hard to change.
But since I’m not sure about the sprocket size /chain length I took an chain with a clip lock this time. The front plate of the clip lock is hard to press on, a screw clamp helps. The sprocket is a KTM aluminium 43th.



I haven’t found a special torque in the manual for the front sprocket bolts. I guess it’s 10Nm for 6mm bolts - and liquid thread locker can’t hurt.



While I’m at it I made a retainer for the upper chain guard of the AX1 (which is out of stock). The latter is mandatory for getting it legalized – no kidding.